I love the sea. Hard to say exactly why, but it's absolutely therapeutic. I love a calm, sun-baked sunny day at low water on a shallow beach like Marazion in Cornwall - the smooth sand littered with hundreds of those funny little worm-coils, and the challenge of getting out to the island and back again before the tide's up. Or a similar challenge, but in a different weatherscape and landscape, crossing over to Holy Island on the north east coast. There you really have to read the tide-times, or take a tent with you.
In England you are never more than 74 miles or so from the sea shore. It really is possible, wherever you live, to get to the coast and back in a day. Easier from some parts than others of course. For me it's an hour and a half's drive to some coast line that is particularly lovely in the winter, its bleak mudflats somehow seeming particularly suited to a winter frost. Sometime in the next few days we will wrap up warm and go for a big beach walk.
In a much harsher and more volatile climate, one of my favourite sea memories was a fishing trip in a Norwegian Ffjord. I had intended to go to Norway for six weeks but ended up staying a year and a half. A few weeks into my visit, some of the locals decided that I should be properly initiated into an understanding of the local industries, and that began with a fishing trip. We set out on a small boat with about 20 people on it, on smooth seas just glinting a little as the sun caught the movement of the water beneath the boat. We had the appropriate fishing gear on, but it was warm and dry, a very promising day. On the way out I was shown various fishing techniques; as this trip had in part been set up for my education, they were going to let me fish with a line on one side of the boat. Much technical stuff that I have long since forgotten was explained laboriously, my early attempts at the Norsk language being supplemented with odd bits of English and a lot of sign language. Eventually we got the thing set up and various lines and nets and what have you were spread about the place. I was pleased, of course, to catch a moderate sized fish - big enough to take home and eat - but pulling it in and landing it I did not enjoy at all. As we fished, the sun began to fade, the clouds began to gather a little - nothing much to worry about, I thought, so I was surprised when the guy in charge suddenly announced, rather urgently, that we should pack up and go home right away. We packed the stuff down and began to stow everything in the right place as the boat began to turn. Suddenly - really, within a few minutes - the whole picture changed. The clouds grew dark and forbidding, the light dropped dramatically, the rain began to come down, and the smooth, calm sea suddenly began to chop about. The storm blew up so fast that even these experienced fishermen went into emergency mode. Language games and niceties were abandoned - they just pushed me down on the middle of the boat and tied me on to something with big ropes. They tied themselves together and on to the boat, and we began to head - slowly and scarily - through enormous waves towards land. I don't remember being afraid, I just remember willing the sea to calm down, and trying to find a point of focus to stop my head from spinning into uncontrollable nausea. A long time later we came in to land. The quayside was lined with people waiting with blankets and hot stuff to drink. I think it wasn't until some time later that I registered the information that not only had I been in serious danger that day, but that these wives on the quayside waited there pretty often, with their arms full of blankets and their hearts in their mouths.
I love fish. Occasionally when I eat it I remember the toil and danger that some people go thorugh, and the worry of those who wait on shore, in order to bring it home to the table.
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